Despite the viability of the Nikon D7100 and Canon 70D, I think that anyone serious enough to buy a camera body between US$1000 and US$2000, will be wanting the most functionality and the least weight to take photography seriously. Sure, you can buy older, cheaper lenses for the D7100 and 70D, but the newer, for-digital lenses cost quite a lot, and they're big.
The E-M1 and X-T1 are similar in many ways. They're loosely based on the company's SLRs of the 1970s. They have a good group of lenses made for the digital world. They have awesome electronic viewfinders and a sliding rear panel.
FujiFilm has that great X-Trans II sensor with its unconventional, non-Bayer pattern color filter, so even though both bodies have roughly 16 MP available in photos, FujiFilm's sensor should give better results. Of course, a lot of this depends on the output and processing. So far, raw processing has not been great, as development companies struggle to learn how to deal with the new patterns. (Phase One Capture One 7 Pro seems to be better than most and Adobe seems to be worse than most.) Given that Olympus is using a typical color filter on its sensor, it's much easier to get great results from raw development applications processing the files. As software developers acclimate themselves to the color attributes, the FujiFilm raw files should prove victorious.
Tests I've seen using large prints have shown that people can tell little difference between different sizes of sensors, even though advocates will tell you that the larger sensor is definitely much, much better. The truth is--it's difficult to find any current camera from micro Four-Thirds on up that will produce bad photos given similar circumstances.
Operationally, the X-T1 has the advantage of physical controls. There are many on the top plate. However, the E-M1 has the advantage of the Super Control Panel. It's very easy to make quick adjustments using the rear display. There is no room for a display on the top plate and it's just as well, seeing as how the display on the Nikon Df is not quite as useful as we could hope. Given how big the Df is over the X-T1 or E-M1, you'd think that there could have been a better compromise made by Nikon.
Having the exposure compensation on the top plate, easy to find, is a win, and as I had to search and search for the control on the E-M1, the X-T1 wins easily. I don't think having the ISO sensitivity control on the top plate helps a bit but FujiFilm has placed it there, as the film speed dial was there on the Fujica SLRs. It would be more helpful if the company would abolish their ISO sensitivity limitations for raw files. I'm not sure how useful any file will be at 51,200, but I would want to process such a file with a raw development application to smush (or schmush, if you prefer--that is a highly technical term for reduction) the noise (and not the image detail) in pleasing ways. Of course, back in the 1970s, we were generally restricted to ASA 400/DIN 27 film and 1/1000th of a second fastest shutter speed and a maximum aperture of f/1.2.
On available lenses, the E-M1 has the advantage with two major brands bringing lenses to market over a few years. FujiFilm is coming along with quite a few good focal lengths, while Olympus is making some interesting choices (the death of their Four-Thirds bodies gives way to HG-like lenses for micro Four-Thirds) nowadays and Panasonic is trying to use Canon's lenses as a guide. It's a bit difficult to tell the better lenses from Olympus, except for price and most recently, the "PRO" label. Panasonic's X label isn't exactly helpful, but that signals their best lenses, and FujiFilm is using XF to mark theirs. Considering third party lenses, FujiFilm has the advantage with electronically-enabled lenses, while Olympus has the advantage with lenses that have no more than a micro Four-Thirds mount. If Schneider and Tamron would actually produce the micro Four-Thirds lenses announced, there would be some interesting alternatives. Schneider, 2013 has come and gone and your 14mm f/2.0 lens doesn't even seem to be in the hands of testers.
Of course, handling will be the big deal for any camera body. As I've said too many times, SLRs from the 1970s were slippery. Mount a heavy lens and you'd better pay attention more than with a current body. The E-M1 and X-T1 have similar grips, and the E-M1 grip was sufficient for light, native lenses. Putting Four-Thirds lenses on the body made the grip uncomfortable for me. This isn't a problem for the X-T1, unless of course, you buy a third party adapter but then, that wasn't planned by the company, whereas the Four-Thirds lenses were meant to work with the E-M1, even though it still seems like an afterthought. You can buy a battery grip for each to help with balance and shooting time.
I found the electronic viewfinder of the E-M1 to be so good that I could give up an optical viewfinder. The viewfinder on the X-T1 is supposedly better, with less lag and a better refresh rate in lower light. The information displayed on the X-T1 in portrait orientation is usefully re-arranged.
If I were starting fresh, I'm not 100% sure what I'd pick but I suspect that it would be the X-T1.
Update 2014.02.17: I've been thinking how the Panasonic GH4 interrupts these thoughts. However, if still photography is my goal, these two will likely still be better choices. I viewed a video today by Guilio Sciorio, a Panasonic Lumix Luminary, and he commented that the GH4 is a much better shooter than the GH3. It's good that you can pull an 8 MP image out of a video file. I've also see Panasonic marketing materials saying that the image quality is better than many other bodies, but it didn't specify stills or video. The video quality is a given, but stills quality? I'm not so sure.
Update 2014.02.22: What Digital Camera gave the X-T1 a score of 93% and the E-M1, 92%. This is my go-to magazine, as I don't see advertising or personal preference influencing the outcome.
Some of the same things bother me, such as the rear display being out in the open, and only sliding or flipping, plus the battery is too small, though the E-M1 has fairly good battery life but the grip is uncomfortable (for me, especially with Four-Thirds lenses) because they're using a small battery and somehow they couldn't see to make it more like the E-5 or GH3. I thought both of these bodies needed two SD Card slots also. At the camera store the other day, they'd mentioned that the X-T1 bodies are trickling into their stores, and are already sold by the time they arrive. Obviously, the E-M1 has been available longer but it's being bought at a good pace, also, despite the size and price complaints from various micro Four-Thirds users.
Update 2014.03.01: It's March already? I spent a little time with an X-T1 yesterday. I didn't photograph anything, so I don't have photos to share. I wanted to compare the size and get a feel for how things worked in the confines of the store. It felt small, as the E-M1 feels small to me. The grip was smaller but better shaped. If they'd put a bigger battery in the grip, two of my doubts would have been handled at once. Given that I wouldn't be putting huge lenses on it, I don't think I'd have as much of a comfort issue as I would with the E-M1 and Four-Thirds lenses.
This blog entry is all about starting fresh, and I think either one is a good choice. The number of manual controls is over the top on the X-T1. I'm not sure if that is a good thing. I don't frequently change the ISO sensitivity setting, so I don't need a manual control just for that, just as it was in the film days, when they had it accessible but somewhat secondary to the shutter speed.
The 1970s had simplicity on their side |
Lift and Turn to set the film speed |
Manual controls for practically everything possible |
X-T1 and GH3 |
The build was solid, similar to the E-M1. It felt better than the Canon 70D or the Nikon D7100--its main rivals, although the grip (and battery inside the grip) was the advantage for the dSLRs.. Once the weather-sealed lenses are available, it should be a very potent package.
Update 2014.03.20: I've seen a lot of good reviews about the X-T1. However, a lot of those seem to be people enamoured of the sheer number of physical controls on the top plate, not necessarily the actual performance, which seems to be very much like the X-E2. The X-E2 is very good, mind, but it's a bit sluggish (and the X-T1 is similar) compared to the E-M1 or the GH3 or the D7100 or the 70D. FujiFilm has come a long way toward making their system desirable. For casual users, I think it should be number 1 because it gives you great images with a minimum of fuss and the film simulation modes give people more of an idea of what to expect than Standard, Natural, or Vivid would suggest. The top shutter speed of 1/4000th of a second seems a bit limiting, especially with the 56mm f/1.2 lens. Neutral Density filters come to mind, though.
That said, the E-M1 is very quick. For sports, it's easy to choose the E-M1, even over the D7100 or 70D. That 1/8000th of a second shutter speed is helpful in many situations, as I have found with the Olympus E-5. The E-M1 is not a body for the casual user. The E-M5 is a better choice for casual users and it is less expensive.
Update 2014.11.06: I'm thinking about the X-T1 again. There is a Rokinon (Samyang/Bower...) 8mm f/2.8 fisheye lens that is available for FujiFilm X-Mount cameras.
The 135 Format equivalent would be 12mm--plus this is an f/2.8 lens, not f/3.5 and that is somewhat more useful. Add to that FujiFilm's sensor handling low light a bit better than Olympus', there are possibilities that I could get some skate park photos in lower light, with higher image quality. It's not guaranteed but it's possible.
The only thing that worries me is that the X-T1 might not be responsive enough. That was always my worry. The E-M1 is extremely responsive, as are the GH3 and GH4. FujiFilm seems to save money by not putting strong processors in the camera bodies. For many people, this isn't a problem. Casual photographers won't have a problem with it but sports photography doesn't wait for you to futz with your camera. When I tried the X-T1, I had wished for a running event outside the store, so I could give it a good workout. Unfortunately, the lenses I want/need for sports still aren't available.
Rokinon seems to have several lenses available, and even though they're manually-operated lenses, they should be good for FujiFilm users. There are more available for micro Four-Thirds though they're not all of the same lenses.
I'm still considering what's best for me.
If you really believe that anything is going to break just from sitting in a bag, then 100% of the mobile devices should have failed already.
I’ve seen plenty of people claim that nothing happened to their devices, while the insides show anything from a mere bump to an impact from being tossed. Others claim that they didn't get their devices wet, yet there is internal corrosion.
You may have seen this article from Lens Rentals already that sheds light on various lenses.
I would certainly like to believe that all equipment is designed correctly. I've seen plenty from the inside out, that is not designed correctly.
Laptop computer hinges make for an easy failure. Most are designed so that even distribution of stress occurs--i.e., your hand goes to the midpoint of the cover and push it with even, light force until it closes. Many people grab a corner and slam the cover closed causing the hinges to fail over time. Is this a design flaw, a part flaw, or abuse? In my opinion, it's abuse, but exactly the kind of abuse a case designer should expect, for which they should try to compensate. If IKEA didn't test their inexpensive chairs for people plopping in them, would they be negligent? Of course, although people shouldn't expect much, if they didn't pay much.
Back to lenses, I've been using two lenses (Olympus ZD 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 and 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5) quite a lot since April 2004. They've been used out in hurricanes, in construction areas, spent 14 hours a day attached to a camera body. My Crumpler bag holding them fell from a seat to the floor, as well the bag was tossed into the back seat of my car by some idiot. I've yet to need service on them.
My Olympus E-5, 35-100mm f/2.0 lens, FL-50 flash fell from a seat to a pool deck in-between swimming races. I picked them up, and used them just fine, although the flash became less reliable, but then, it's almost all plastic, and later, it failed.
One of the first experiences I had with dSLRs was my buddy's Canon 300D/Digital Rebel. The lens was mostly plastic and a high percentage of them broke while still mounted to the body. No, you can't just drop something like that on a table or the ground and expect them to survive.
Besides this, "plastic" is a very general term that people put to acrylic, nylon, polycarbonate, and more. You've probably used any number of materials that are loosely defined as plastic, but that don't have similar characteristics. Strength is a matter of the material's design. Anything can be broken, given enough and the correct kind of force. Perhaps, you've seen the recent IIHS vehicle crash test ratings where 5 star rated vehicles were reduced in their ratings because of new crash tests that simulated real life better. If you don't plan for it, it's only luck between you and circumstance.
I've yet to have a lens break and while I've had a few phones replaced because of failure, I've never had to have a display replaced. I suppose I'm just more careful, but buying a proper bag or case never costs too much. My iPhone 4s was dropped 20-30 times while it was in my Otterbox Defender case. The case had minor scratches but the phone was like new after two years, although I only held it bare maybe five times. For that matter, my original diskette drives from the early 1980s still work. My 75 MB Seagate drive from 1990 still works.
In any case, the Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 lenses that I have used were shared among a group. They were all available a couple of months ahead of availability to be sold. In the case of a photowalk, we traded lenses quite often. Obviously when walking and talking and checking for traffic, you're not as likely to be careful with equipment. I used the 12-40mm lens on the supplied Olympus E-M1 as well as my own Panasonic GH3.
Were the lenses different than what you can buy? I don't believe so. Did they have an extra inspection to make sure that they wouldn't fall apart during a demonstration? I would believe that.
The lens felt better than my Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8 lens. It may all be perception but Panasonic made their lens feel cheap in their use of materials and finish. Optically, it's not very good either. I understand that there are measured flaws with the 12-40mm lens, which is to be expected. Fitting between my 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 and my 14-35mm f/2.0 in both price and performance, I would expect the flaws to be in accordance with its positioning.
Unfortunately, I don't have the 12-40mm yet, due to my having to replace my water heater for a similar amount. If the 12-40mm could have produced hot water, you know what I would have chosen.
So, after all this blah blah blah, I don't believe that there is any huge flaw with the 12-40mm lens. They may not have designed and tested for unintentional abuse, which is a flaw in their operations. (You think this is bad? I have a horror story about a company making aircraft parts not testing them correctly, only to receive them later because they did not pass inspection by the airline.) Olympus probably should have put the 12-40mm on each current Olympus and Panasonic body and dropped it a few inches to see the results. If they did not, they were not designing for the real world.
Update 2014.02.05: This interview with Olympus executives seems to point to there being any widespread problem with the lens. Whether it's correct or whether they're untruthful is unknown. As a Japanese, I know that getting a straight answer on an unpleasant subject means that they're answering truthfully because Japanese people will talk around the subject otherwise.
Update 2014.02.20: I bought mine yesterday. I tend to treat my Four-Thirds lenses harshly at times, so we'll see what happens. (My Olympus E-5 and 35-100mm f/2.0 fell from a poolside seat onto the pool deck, and I picked them up and kept shooting, and one year later, still haven't had a problem with eitther.) I'm taking it out in the weather today, although it's becoming warmer at the moment, we're supposed to have thunderstorms later.
Update 2014.02.22: The combination of GH3 and 12-40mm f/2.8 have been together since the 20th. They've been in some odd positions in my car, not usually in the bag because I wanted them ready. If there was to be some stressful position, I'm sure they've already seen it.
Update 2014.02.24: It still hasn't broken. I guess I'll have to be ruthless, which is reasonable, since I don't know anyone named Ruth lately, so I'm definitely Ruth-less.
Update 2014.03.09: Still no luck in breaking it accidentally. The lens has been in the bag a bit of the time, but generally, it's attached to the GH3 and is somewhere near the floor of the car when I'm driving. While I'm walking with it, I haven't taken any more care than I do with the 14-35mm or 14-54mm lenses. The combination of the 12-40mm with the GH3 seems quite light but sturdy. If I had dropped these from a seat to a pool deck, I'm not sure either would survive. The GH3 feels relatively strong but I could hammer nails with the E-1 or E-5 bodies. The 12-40mm lens feels so much stronger than the Panasonic 35-100mm f/2.8 lens that I'm shocked that the Panasonic lens was more expensive. I would expect that the Panasonic 12-35mm f/2.8 lens is equally dainty, though its image quality is reportedly better than the 35-100mm.
Update 2014.03.20: The 12-40mm has been attached to the GH3 and when it's not out, it's in my sideways-opening LowePro bag, facing inward. I haven't been overly careful with it.
Update 2015.09.22: Still not luck breaking the lens, but the front lens cap fell apart, and apparently, it happens with regularity for some, according to a review on the GetOlympus site.